Dress Your Mind, Not Your Age: Everyday Fashion, Ageism and the South Asian Woman

The pandemic has been quite an eye-opener. Despite more than half of the world’s population in lockdown, societal violations like domestic abuse, racism and social irresponsibility were even more pervasive. There was a disturbing surge in Anti-Asian hate crimes while reported incidents of domestic violence almost doubled in some regions. But one particular element of social discrimination that is often, and was, ignored is ageism. According to World Health Organisation’s ‘Global Report on Ageism’, published in March this year, “at least one in every two people hold moderately or highly ageist attitudes.” And not so surprisingly, the highest incidence of ageism was recorded in developing, lower-middle-income countries including those in South Asia.

Lack of infrastructure to meet the needs of the elderly, little to no job security and no freedom to sexual and physical desires make for some ageist infiltrations in our cultural response to old age, as a whole. One may argue though that ageism is not as apparent in South Asian communities, because our core value system places ‘the elderly’ at an elevated position, venerating them as leaders of the clan. We are only expected to respect them and be grateful for their sacrifices and wisdom. But in reality, I believe, this status is less of power and influence and more symbolic in nature. It may be regarded but not necessarily a consideration. As an older person, you must be the torchbearer of society’s patriarchal, moralistic beliefs, upholding an endless stream of traditions with little agency and freedom to exercise change. If however, you show defiance, you are quickly reduced to a caricature, mocked and ridiculed for not holding the precedence. Not following? Let me ask you, have you never heard statements like: “burhaape main jawaani,” “buddhi ghori laal lagaam” and so on and so forth? These are just some examples of ageist comments and how freely they are used to sneer at anyone who is even a little outside the acceptable standards of ‘old age.’ And it won’t be an overstatement to say that such remarks are often directed more towards women than men.

[Read Related: Setting the Bar for Discrimination: Don’t Let Sexism Become the New Racism]

Dress Your Age

As is, women in South Asia face far greater social restrictions — from being disregarded as nothing but a burden on the family to being told how to behave and dress; forever obeying the patriarchal standards and stereotypes that define their existence. And, dressing remains a crucial part of this discussion. How a woman dresses is, more often than not, seen as a reflection of her character, morals and upbringing. For instance, anything that is even the slightest bit revealing is either too sexually provocative and uncalled for the young or downright shameless and inappropriate for those over 40. In fact, there is an age-appropriate fashion rulebook for every phase of a South Asian woman’s life. The one for ‘old age’ pivots on being modest, conscious and pretty much dull and boring. Women in this arbitrary category are meant to seek happiness in spiritual guidance, nanny their grandkids, forgo their desires and dress ‘sensibly’ — that is, in muted tones and covering drapes. And since old age is not seen as an attractive, palatable physical quality, any fashion choice that may sexualise your image makes you a fair target for public scrutiny.


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It’s exactly what happened with South Indian actress Rajini Chandy. Touted as an already unconventional individual for breaking into cinema at the age of 65, Chandy, like most women her age from Kerala, is usually seen clad in traditional sarees. But earlier this year, the actress decided to embark on a fashion adventure and collaborated with photographer Athira Joy for a fun photo shoot. In it, Chandy can be seen confidently sporting a pair of ripped jeans, a corset top, floral headgear and a short denim dress. And while on paper, Chandy has every right to experiment with her fashion choices, the photoshoot did not sit well with her fans and audiences alike. In an interview with BBC, Chandy revealed she was “slut-shamed” and was told that this was her “age to pray, not show off (her) body.” The trolling was almost incessant.

Despite being part of the diaspora, seemingly progressive and distant from the strong conformist ties that bind their native culture together, Canadian author Neesha Meminger faced similar backlash for being open about her fashion preferences and exploring her sexuality.

“I started posting [online] in order to make connections with people during this time of social distancing. [Because] socialising becomes increasingly more challenging as one gets older. [But] The most brutal shaming I got was when I dared to post videos that were unflinchingly on the ‘sexy’ side,” Meminger shared the details of her experience in a chat with Brown Girl. “The harshest reprimanding was for one where I was dancing to Punjabi music in a sports bra and jean shorts. I was made a joke by young South Asian men AND women. One young Indian woman commented, “Talk about mutton dressed as lamb!” with a laughing emoji. Older women (closer to my own age) felt the need to give me “helpful” advice like, “your dancing is beautiful! But I recommend you put on a more appropriate outfit.”


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“At first, I thought the people shaming me were upset about the amount of skin I was showing,” she continued. “But when I look at Bollywood films these days, there are young women prancing around in bikinis and no one seems to bat an eyelash. That’s when I realised the problem for those who felt the need to shame me was not the amount of skin I was showing. It was that a mother over the age of 30 dared to own her body and sexuality in a very public and unapologetic way.”

[Read More: Anchal’s Podcast ‘What Would The Aunties Say’ Takes on the Aunties]

It’s not always skin-show though that people find disturbing in older women. In a country like Pakistan, where modest wear is the standard dress code, fashion-centred ageism translates into colours, drapes, cuts and more. A pastel-hued, long kameez with preferably a shalwar and at most a pair of straight-cut pants makes for my mom’s typical dress affair. Throw in a bit of sequins and zardozi and perhaps a darker shade, as long as it maintains some notion of ‘sobriety,’ the same turns into evening wear. Dare one suggest bright reds and oranges or a more fluid silhouette; she is sure that they are in no way meant for women her age. Older women back home are forever wary of deviating from the norm as a rule of thumb and are also quick to flinch over fellow contemporaries who do. And it’s because of the widespread belief that a woman is responsible for her own actions and her status in society. Following the conventions is for her own good. It’s all an interconnection of discriminatory notions — ageism, sexism, misogyny and more. 

A popular former Editor and now the CEO of the PR firm, Talking Point, Fareshteh Aslam, admits that she hasn’t quite met with public disapproval for her fashion sensibilities simply because she makes it a point to be cautious. “I make the time and effort to dress according to the occasion and the audience. It’s just the way things are. By being careful, I’m protecting myself,” she said. But even then, she admits there have been instances where just her “wearing a saree has raised eyebrows.”


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Shifting the Narrative

As with most movements, there are certain anchors of change, there are also women who are defying the limitations that their culture puts on their physical, mental, emotional and sexual capacities as an older individual. Actress Neena Gupta recently made it a point that she couldn’t care less about the handful of close-minded individuals who criticised her for wearing a pair of shorts while gifting her autobiography to the legendary lyricist Gulzar. Veteran actress Waheeda Rehman was also recently seen trying her hands at wildlife photography at the age of 83.

Aside from Bollywood, which does offer a certain privilege and perhaps some respite from the day-to-day, a Mumbai-based model Geeta J. is trying to redefine the modelling industry’s perception of older women. Geeta shifted careers to pursue her lifelong dream of modelling at the age of 50. But while her family fully supported her new endeavour, she soon realised that the modelling world wasn’t too welcoming a place for a mature model.

“Some of the comments I heard from agencies were, “we want to model our western wear, so we don’t require mature models”; “you can model our cotton bra and panty. Fancy lingerie is not for mature models…” Even for sarees, which are often worn by mature Indian women, preference was given to younger models,” she shared.


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However, instead of feeling discouraged and deterring from the path she took, Geeta decided to take matters into her own hands. She got a photoshoot done flaunting a sexy lingerie set and posted it online — a move some would call too brave and others, vulgar. She then registered a petition with change.org campaigning for women’s freedom to dress in whatever they feel like, regardless of age — #AgeNotCage.

“It is sad that we have to call this a ‘BRAVE’ move. Shouldn’t wearing fancy lingerie, and modelling for the same be a normal thing for a woman of any age?” she questions the prevalent mindset. “If the same thing would have been done by a woman in her 20s or 30s, then it would have been considered normal by all! If a woman after 40 dresses in a way that doesn’t fit society’s notions, then it’s considered bold or brave. This is the kind of thinking I want to change — I want to normalise this.”

[Read More: ‘Unpacking Brown Boy Misogyny’]

Also normalising boundless aspirations and an active lifestyle for women over 40 is Preeti Gandhi. A fitness and wellness influencer in the US, Gandhi is proof that ageing doesn’t have to be representative of sagging boobs and deteriorating health. And it surely doesn’t mean that it’s time to quit and surrender to the natural course of life. With ab routines and healthy recipes, vacay pictures and a great deal of mindfulness, she is on a mission to inspire women to take charge of their bodies and remain active even when the world expects them to retreat and retire.

“We all have beautiful bodies at every age. In the fitness industry, you’ll see much younger women posting their workouts; how much energy they have cause it’s much easier when you are younger. My goal is to show the real mom, who is working nine to five, commuting long hours, has family duties, no domestic help and is still making time for herself,” she stresses. “Because that’s the first step to self-care, mental care and physical care. A day at the spa or manicure can make you feel happy for the moment, but imagine taking care of yourself every single day first, that is empowering.”

She agrees that there have been incidents in the past where she was scrutinised for sporting a sports bra and a pair of leggings and being so transparent about her lifestyle on social media, but is confident that she is well past caring about what others think. “There is definitely an unsaid implication that as you age, you should show less skin, wear clothes that are loose-form and don’t emphasise any body part. [But] at my age, you stop worrying about what anyone thinks. I choose to ignore and move on. I cannot control people’s mindsets, but I sure can control my reaction. Wear what you want and feel comfortable in it. I started wearing bikinis post 40…so there you go…I felt comfortable in my skin in spite of my rolls.  Who cares, you do you!” she states.

Paving The Way Ahead

In her conversation with Brown Girl, Geeta mentioned it is important that change comes from visibility. “Brands are unconsciously sending a message to people that lacy and sexy lingerie or fancy activewear is only for women in their 20s or 30s and the desire of a 40+ woman to wear them is wrong! The absence of any representation of mature models in the category makes women after 40 feel hesitant to buy or wear these products. If this change starts from lingerie brands and if they start including mature models, it will be easier for other products to do the same too. This will lead to a change in the mindset of people who think that after 40, women should dress and behave in a certain way,” she points out.

Fashion has long fetishised youth. Brands and labels tend to sell youth-based aspirations, resorting to campaigns that mostly revolve around the idea of being ‘young, hip and cool.’ This constant championing of an age-bound standard of beauty and style by brands then infiltrates into magazines and retail experience where age-appropriate fashion advice adds to the larger problem. The handful of brands, that do make the effort of being inclusive, take the formulaic approach by dressing mature models in predominantly dull, frumpy, old-fashioned clothes as if older women are irrelevant to the world around them.


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In recent years, some South Asian fashion labels have tread in the right direction. Pakistan’s pioneering RTW label, Generation, turned over a new life around 2015 and became particularly noteworthy for its progressive fashion campaigns challenging social stereotypes. One of its campaigns titled ‘Shehnaz Ki Shaadi’ featured an older model, Naveed Anjum, dressed as a bride in ornate, colourful outfits. This was to be her second marriage, much later in life, but with her children joining in the celebrations. As a brand, Generation took a societal taboo head-on, initiating a much-needed dialogue on the scope of what should be acceptable in our culture. Fashion labels like Heena Kochhar, Khara Kapas and Ali Xeeshan Theatre Studio have all featured mature models in their fashion campaigns paving a way for greater acceptance and inclusivity but such efforts are still few and far between.


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Fashion houses need to make a conscious effort of recognising the sartorial needs of older women and just how fluid those can be. Instead of compartmentalising them and feeding into the cultural belief that an ageing woman and an ageing body are undesirable, stagnant and redundant. Much like its Western counterpart, South Asian fashion needs to break away from defining itself as aspirational and idealistic and be representative of reality.

[Read More: 11 South Asian Women Break Through the Fashion Barrier by Baring Their Insecurities on Camera]

But the onus is not just on fashion labels, designers and consumer brands, it’s on our collective mindsets. The desire to live life to the fullest does not end as life progresses and years are added and it shouldn’t be expected to either. As a community, we need to question our own assumptions of the age. Ageing is only natural then why stigmatise it and promote ways to mitigate it. Why not instead celebrate ageing, divert efforts towards graceful ageing and understand that while they make decisions for the family, they hold the right to make decisions for themselves. And this can only be made possible by initiating a discourse and making it a commitment to it.

During our chat, Aslam concluded that despite living in a supposed democracy, “the fact is that I don’t dress as I please, I can’t eat or drink as I would like to, I don’t have too much freedom after speech.” but she hopes that it will be “resolved only by constant debate.”

By Nida Hasan

Editor by profession, writer by passion, and a mother 24/7, Nida is a member of Brown Girl Lifestyle's editing team … Read more ›

Hand Embroidery: South Asia’s Not-so-Famous Contribution to Global Fashion

hand embroidery

South Asian fashion is nearly always associated with color, glitz, and ornate designs. From embellished bridal wear, weighing as much as the bride herself, to brightly colored sarees, Indian craft and hand embroidery is hard to miss — except when it’s showing up in non-Indian clothing.

Did you know that Jennifer Lopez’s famous green, jungle-print Versace dress from the 2000 Grammy Awards was hand-embroidered in India? Or that top luxury brands, including Gucci, Dior, and Saint Laurent, have quietly outsourced much of their embroidery to South Asia for over three decades now? As brands cross borders to connect and innovate through fashion, South Asia has come to the forefront of global fashion as the go-to region for hand embroidery. In 2019, India’s embroidery exports exceeded $230 million, which was a 500 percent increase from the 1990s. This isn’t simply because of the affordable labor and extra cushion for the bottom line — it’s a testament to the unmatched skill of South Asian artisans.

[Read Related: Honouring Tradition and Embracing my Heritage Through Ethnic Wear]

South Asian artisans, also known as ‘karigars,’ are the unnamed force behind a designer’s vision. They often reside in rural parts of the Subcontinent and have gathered skill, creativity, and knowledge over generations. During my travels this year, for the launch of my fashion brand Chaa Latte, I witnessed artisans train from as young as seven years old, mastering embroidery techniques by the time they’re in their teens. Crouched over a table in a dimly-lit room, these artisans work tirelessly to adorn yards of fabric with beautiful beads and sequins, or weave glistening gold yarn into silk and cotton with sometimes nothing more than their memory to guide the motif. Some of them have little to no education and have never stepped outside of their village. Yet, hand them thread and a needle and they are among the best embroiderers in the world.


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Is Indian hand embroidery as prolific as French lace? I would argue yes, and maybe even more, but without the fame. Established brands and their collections have stood on the craft of these rural artisans for decades but have rarely given credit. Only few Western designers, such as Dries Van Noten and Isabel Marant, proudly celebrate their relationship with Indian craftspeople. Perhaps because of this nearly silent partnership, a label that says “Made in India” or “Made in Bangladesh” does not equate to beautiful, luxurious work — rather, the complete opposite. Fast fashion may be one output, but the true strength of South Asia lies in centuries of incredibly intricate, slow, and artisanal processes.

In a Times of India article, David Abraham of Abraham & Thakore — a well-regarded Indian label — eloquently says that we must recognize the fact that India is one of the very few countries left that can still produce small lot, labor intensive, highly-skilled craft and textiles.

He adds, “And that is the true luxury in a world of growing mass consumerism and an antidote to the very real threats of environmental pollution, global warming and a growing understanding that we need to buy less, pay more for fashion that is more timeless, classic and responsible.”

South Asia’s fashion identity is at a crossroads, and it’s up to designers, especially the younger generation, to build brands that showcase the luxury and painstaking craft of South Asian embroidery, weaving, and the various other hand techniques mastered over centuries. I launched my fashion brand, Chaa Latte, late last year because I believe the true beauty of South Asian fashion is in the subtle, intricate craft and this simply isn’t accessible to North Americans in a way that fits their lifestyle seamlessly. I was set on designing modern pieces for people of all backgrounds, who have a love for art in the form of fashion and have an eye for unique detail.


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My first collection encompasses some of my favorite techniques and textiles from India and Bangladesh, including mirror work and silk handloom sarees. The detailing is balanced with simple silhouettes and a neutral color palette. I am now working on my second collection, which will be released in Spring/Summer of 2023. 

Like me, many young designers are tapping into their unique heritage to draw inspiration and bring attention to the Western world. I had the pleasure of speaking to two fellow South Asian designers who are making a mark on the US fashion industry, while highlighting their love for South Asian craft. When asked about the role of traditional textiles and techniques in their work, Niharika of Tega Collective responds:

With each collection our designs are co-created with a specific indigenous community highlighting their traditional colors, patterns and natural symbols. Every region in the world has incredible biodiversity so we focus on championing native fibers in South Asia like Khadi (indigenous cotton) and Eri (peace) silk originating from Assam, India.

[Read Related: Celebrity Designer Sanjay Garg Gives Us the Inside Scoop on Everything Handlooms and the Sari]

In a separate conversation with designer Sana Khan Patel, from Aara by Sana, she tells us how she was inspired to start her line:

When a family wedding took me back to my hometown of Lahore, Pakistan, after a long 18 years, I was blown away by the level of skill I saw in the gullys (streets) of Lahore. From fabric dyeing to intricate beading to the quality of tailoring, they did it all so effortlessly and with so much pride. I quickly realized that the artisans simply want to create art but unfortunately, in most cases they are overworked, underpaid and treated extremely poorly. I immediately knew that I wanted to work with and learn from these OG’s as much as I wanted to put them in a position of providing for their families.

It’s the hope that this recognition from up-and-coming brands, like Chaa Latte, will shed light into how much South Asia is truly lending to global luxury fashion and the rich history that makes these art forms unique to our countries.


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For more information on Chaa Latte, please visit our website and follow our journey on Instagram.

Feature Image: Hannah Schweiss Photography

By Promiti Prosun

Promiti Prosun is the Bengali Canadian designer and founder of fashion brand, Chaa Latte. Though most of her career was … Read more ›

Indiaspopup.com Celebrates International Women’s Day by Honoring 5 South Asian Women we Look up to


Indiaspopup.com — USA’s premier online destination for luxury Indian designer clothing and accessories — is a global platform for South Asian fashion. It curates inclusive, embracive, and conscious trends and styles from the heart of India to its global shoppers. Founded by Archana Yenna, the company honored South Asian women from various walks of life who are leading the path for future generations. The luxury retailer hosted a ‘Power Table’ dinner at Armani/Ristorante in New York City with South Asian women leading the change in fashion, entrepreneurship, media, entertainment, and journalism.

At Indiaspopup.com, we empower and celebrate women through authentic South Asian fashion and community contributions. As we celebrate Women’s Day, we remain committed to sharing inspiring stories of South Asian women achievers and changemakers. Our recent ‘Power Table’ dinner in New York City celebrated remarkable women — trailblazers of South Asian heritage, inspiring the next generation of female leaders to dream big and chase their aspirations.

Archana Yenna, Founder and CEO of Indiaspopup.com


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The company also honored five South Asian female role models that have been instrumental to the diaspora with their various works in nonprofit, societal causes and community building:

Nina Davuluri – acclaimed filmmaker, activist, actor and entrepreneur
Megha Desai – president of The Desai Foundation
Shoba Narayan – film, television, and theater actor
Hitha Palepu – entrepreneur and author
Cynthia Victor – beauty influencer

Yenna honored these women for breaking stereotypes and spreading positivity on body sizes, health, confidence, and skin tone. Through her work with Indiaspopup.com, Yenna hopes to help women feel beautiful, confident, and feminine, and make progress toward positive change. In a series of photos shot in New York City’s Baccarat Hotel, dedicated to the quintessence of luxury and excellence, Indiaspopup.com produced a high tea-themed photoshoot to celebrate its honorees.  The women wore avant-garde clothing donning some of India’s most prominent designers while sipping tea, dining on canapés, and enjoying one another’s company. Exemplifying Indian royalty, the women championed one another and the power of sisterhood, and shared what womanhood meant to each one of them.

During the two-day festivities, Indiaspopup.com announced their partnership with Sakhi for South Asian Women, an NGO that represents the South Asian diaspora in a survivor-centered movement for gender justice. Sakhi applies a trauma-informed, culturally responsive lens with a long-term commitment to mobilizing a future free from violence. Yenna pledged to donate a portion of sales from the month of March to the organization.

Sakhi for South Asian Women is grateful to Indiaspopup.com for uplifting and investing in our work with survivors of gender-based violence. Nationally, 48% of South Asian Americans experience gender based violence throughout their lifetime, and at Sakhi, we have seen a 65% increase in cases over one year. This support will help us address the overwhelming need in our community and continue our commitment toward a future of healing and justice.

— Kavita Mehra, Executive Director at Sakhi for South Asian Women

To learn more about Indiaspoup.com visit their website.

Photo Credit: Saunak Shah / Video Credit: Swapnil Junjare

By Brown Girl Magazine

Brown Girl Magazine was created by and for South Asian womxn who believe in the power of storytelling as a … Read more ›

Khushey: Fashionable Blouses Without the Suffering


While growing up, the only complaint I had when wearing desi clothes was that the embroidery on the fabric would always end up scratching my skin. As beautiful and intricate the details were, putting on an embellished blouse meant wearing an inner or a comfortable t-shirt underneath. Fortunately now, many South Asian brands are changing the game; focusing not only on the quality and intricacy of the embroidery, but also on comfort and wearability of the blouse itself. One such small business is Khushey.

Khushey is a one-stop shop for “buttery soft” performance blouses that don’t compromise on comfort for fashion and pair just as well with any of your mom’s saris as they do with your newest lehenga. In an interview with Brown Girl Magazine, founder Neha Seelam talks more about what inspired her to launch Khushey and what the brand has to offer.


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Why did you want to start a brand that specializes in South Asian/Indo-Western blouses specifically?

I wanted to specialize in blouses because blouses are really the only part of Indo-Western clothing that I found a specific ‘problem’ with — one I thought I could solve. I absolutely love everything else about our clothing — with the variety of patterns/styles/cuts available, I feel that you can easily find the perfect piece out there.

But the part of South Asian clothing that my friends and I found to be a perpetual challenge was the blouse. They’re usually gorgeous, but by the end of the day you can’t wait to take them off. Also, it’s so hard to find a fit that looks seamless and beautiful — usually the chest, underarm or sleeve just wouldn’t fit the way you want it to with the heavy material and traditional tailoring.

I wanted to start off with basic colors but in shiny/formal-looking material that I could mix and match with all the different colors and styles of South Asian clothes that I already have in my wardrobe. The goal is that the blouses can be used multiple times with different outfits, are ideal for long nights of partying, and feel great against the skin.

What’s the story behind the brand’s name, Khushey? 

The English word “cushy,” which means comfortable, actually originates from the Hindi word ‘khushi’ (happiness). I thought that the origin story was very sweet and resonated with the idea of comfort and happiness I had for my label. That’s how I chose the word Khushey — slightly adjusting the spelling so I could snag the right URL! 

What is your number one priority when it comes to your blouses? 

Formal wear that’s actually comfortable! I would love for women to be in the moment at their celebrations, and not feel constrained, itchy, or uncomfortable in their blouse.


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Who is your target customer? 

South Asian women! Customers, from recent graduates all the way to stylish moms, have loved the product — especially moms since they typically value comfort and movability if they have to chase down kids at events!

How do you think Khushey allows South Asian women to embrace their love for South Asian fashion? 

Over the last decade, I’ve seen women repurposing crop tops from Zara and H&M as sari blouses, and while I think that’s awesome and creative, I wanted to create an option for South Asian women where every detail was oriented around recreating the perfect sari/lehenga blouse. The shine is intended to be appropriate for formal wear, the cuts were inspired by some of my favorite blouses from when I was younger that wouldn’t have bra straps showing from underneath and were versatile for saris or lehengas, and the embroidery is intended to add a desi flair.

You’ve mentioned sustainability on your website. How are your blouses sustainable?

I plan to donate five percent of profits every year to a sustainable organization. Once I get enough interest from the public, I would like to fund new product lines that use eco-friendly materials that were prohibitively expensive for me to launch with. But I am eager to incorporate recycled spandex/nylon and metal into my pieces once I can afford to!


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What sort of designs do you plan on incorporating into your label in the future?

I’ve thought of so many designs that I can build on. Starting with colors; I’d like to have all of the major colors available in my basic sleeveless blouse and then create a more modest version of that blouse with a variety of basic colors as well. 

I’d also love to expand the patterns and embroidery options on the blouses. I hope to create seasonal collections that enable me to tap into the vast array of style/color inspirations that South Asian wear includes.

[Read Related: Walking the Journey Through Time with The Saree Room]

Khushey promises to offer comfort and style, all packaged into one performance blouse that you can reuse with a variety of desi outfits. Like Neha said, ditch your Zara crop top for a design that actually complements your desi look. Make sure to keep your eyes out for her latest designs!

By Shezda Afrin

Shezda Afrin is an aspiring physician from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. At the age of four, it was quite normal of her … Read more ›